Thursday, September 30, 2010

In Canoa

Unfortunately not all was roses. The cheap hotel was horrible: dirty and filled only with men (I felt like in a strict Arabic country). Boris confessed that he didn't have any money because he spent two days in BaƱos, a touristic place, where he met some foreigners. They were drinking a lot and the bill left him with no money. He proposed that if I paid for his room (well, at the end we shared a room) and for the trip to Canoa, he would pay for my hotel in Canoa. I agreed because it meant spending only 5 pounds on his accomodation, travel and I also bought him a supper. Otherwise he would have slept in the bus station, hungry. Did I act like Mother Theresa? I really didn't mind spending the money on him but the way he had approached the situation wasn't nice (starting a conversation with a foreigner just to ask for money and not admitting from the beginnig what the circumstances were). I decided it was a lesson for me, I will never get very friendly with a stranger again.
We checked other hotels in Chone but they were all dirty and expensive. The town itself is not especially attractive with no proper roads and dirty, falling apart houses. Such a different world from Quito!!
We had something to eat - the hygine level was scary, I am praying I will not get any bug in the next months.
The bus to Canoa at 5 am was a commercial bus, very comfortable, but Boris convinced me to take three public buses. They cost few times less but the trip was very unpleasant. Hey, but I saved a pound!! :)) However, somehow, my spirit was high - it is because I experienced the real Ecuadorian life, and I love experiencing everything local, even if it is uncomfortable, dirty and smelly. There were no travellers in Chone or on our way to Canoa - I suppose the road wasn't very popular with travellers. We had to change in San Vincente town. On the other side of Chone river you could see the city of Bahia de Caraquez. There is a new bridge connecting the two places, before people had to take a boat to get to the other side. We had a walk in San Vincente so I got the idea how undeveloped it was.
We arrived in Canoa at 11 am and Boris took me to a hotel where we were going to stay overnight. Apparently the owner of the hotel was his friend. I initially agreed to stay in the hotel. I took shower and I decided to have a look at the village. I was sharing a huge, 3-bed room with Boris because it was cheaper and supposedly Boris was going to pay for it (but with what?). I left the hotel and hungry Boris in the room and I walked for about 15 minutes. Suddenly, many thoughts started coming to my head: how could I have left my luggage in the room with Boris?? Why did I trust him? He is hungry and my rucksack contains items which can be sold. He has a guide to Ecuador in English. Why would he buy an expensive guide in English? Did he steal it from somebody? Also, the thought that I was "chained" to him for the next night made me feel unhappy.
I stopped walking. I looked around. I asked in few hotels how much was a private room. I found a great room overlooking the sea for 3 pounds a night. I came back to the hotel, apologised to Boris, told him not to worry about paying for me, took all my stuff and moved to my hotel. I felt so relieved and happy!
The hotel is small and very simple but it is great. The owner was very interested in my private life and if I had a boyfriend. I hope he will not try to get to my room at night (why the hell I have these thoughts?? - maybe because it happened in my life before...).
The village is extremely small (you can visit it in 15 minutes) but it has its character. It is called a "surfing paradise" (unfortunately not couch surfing paradise...). The surf lovers can find everything in here. The weather is not great at the moment (clouds and drizzle) and I can't see any surfers in the sea. There must be a reason for it, perhaps no good waves or wrong wind??. However there are some backpackers in the village.
I went for a long walk on the beach in the afternoon, I felt great. Simplicity of life plus nature is what I need at the moment. The village is also safe: guns, assaults, homelessness and crime floated away for a moment.
However, I am not staying in Ecuador for long time. I need local Couch Surfers to feel alive and to learn from them. I didn't come to South America to meet travellers from Europe, I have enough of them in London.